1956 Model 99

Here is process for dent removal in fuel tank . A template of aluminum was made by scribing a piece of aluminum on the undamaged ( left ) side of tank . The radius was transferred to the wood block and sawn . Carriage bolts of three diameters were chucked in the lathe and ground to match tank radius with a flapper wheel .
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Tank saddle cut open and dent driven out with hammer and carriage bolts into wooden buck .
1956 Model 99
 
Some tinware arrived from Norvil - air filter box , pre 57 chainguard
and open style rear number plate. 1956 should have the enclosed type but RGM is out of stock and have not responded to my e mails as to when they may get more . Norvil also out of them and do not expect more till the end of summer so I opted for the late type . In all honesty I like the later version better as it looks less bulky
and as I will be doing the fuel tank in the later style with side panel I think it will be ok . The mounting holes are different however and so I will have to have some holes welded up . The fuel tank is with the welder now having the piece I cut out for dent repair put back together and then pressure test for leaks.
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I had to make up some coupling nuts / threaded rod for the air
box .
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A pleasant little lathe project and a nice change from stripping crud and paint and fixing dents and bent things .
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The next challenge is going to be finding an element for the air filter box. Fram CA 4294 according to what I could glean from the internet. Seems to be a European item so 12 bucks for the element and 30 bucks to get it here.
Lastly I’ve begun to prepare the curb find dresser to hold the Dommie as I will soon need the lift for de winterizing the 3 other bikes.
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Cheers !
RT
 
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! made a good filter from an Austin Mini one cutting to width and length . this leaves the filter with only one side with rubber edge, grease filter box . lay a wide bead of setting mastic on the grease and assemble . When dry filter can be removed if required . It was necessary to fit some spray baffles to stop spray from rear wheel getting into filter.
 
The studs on the seat are BSC 5/16 x 26 if that helps anyone.
I purchased some 1/4-20 wing nuts from HD and then drilled them out to the correct size for tapping them 5/6-26. Going to have them tack welded to body washers. I will make a couple of extras to keep in the tool tray for when I loose one.
 
I purchased some 1/4-20 wing nuts from HD and then drilled them out to the correct size for tapping them 5/6-26. Going to have them tack welded to body washers. I will make a couple of extras to keep in the tool tray for when I loose one.
Ha - I thought of doing that so I tried it with some stainless ones I had on hand . The wing nuts work hardened so much from drilling
I was afraid I would break the tap …
 
Ha - I thought of doing that so I tried it with some stainless ones I had on hand . The wing nuts work hardened so much from drilling
I was afraid I would break the tap …
Going from 1/4" to the correct size to tap for 5/16" isn't very hard. Going to get the wing nuts and washers welded today. I don't have a welder and my friend has a wire feed. Should only take a moment or two.
 
Still waiting on tank from welder . I have stripped the seat and have taken the pan down to bare metal . Someone in the past must have been large - pan dished way deep in seat area . I managed to straighten it all out on the press but broke a spot weld on the strip that holds the captive nuts so that will need tacking before prime / paint . Meanwhile I received an upholstery kit from Leighton’s .
It includes a molded foam base as per original.
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I also have received my rebuilt dynamo and magneto from Doug Wood.
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Should anyone require here is his contact info. He is located in Boyertown PA.
Doug Wood
dougwood@netzero.net
610 737 0036
 
Some tinware arrived from Norvil - air filter box , pre 57 chainguard
and open style rear number plate. 1956 should have the enclosed type but RGM is out of stock and have not responded to my e mails as to when they may get more . Norvil also out of them and do not expect more till the end of summer so I opted for the late type . In all honesty I like the later version better as it looks less bulky
and as I will be doing the fuel tank in the later style with side panel I think it will be ok . The mounting holes are different however and so I will have to have some holes welded up . The fuel tank is with the welder now having the piece I cut out for dent repair put back together and then pressure test for leaks.
View attachment 118722
I had to make up some coupling nuts / threaded rod for the air
box .
View attachment 118723
A pleasant little lathe project and a nice change from stripping crud and paint and fixing dents and bent things .
View attachment 118724
View attachment 118725
View attachment 118726
The next challenge is going to be finding an element for the air filter box. Fram CA 4294 according to what I could glean from the internet. Seems to be a European item so 12 bucks for the element and 30 bucks to get it here.
Lastly I’ve begun to prepare the curb find dresser to hold the Dommie as I will soon need the lift for de winterizing the 3 other bikes.
View attachment 118727
Cheers !
RT
I had to remove the caarb from my 58 Domi 88 and to get it off I had to remove the battery box. Always something! So as long as I had it off I took some pictures of my Volks air cleaner. The hose between the filter is now a piece of radiator hose. Wish I could find the correct one but I expect those are as rare as unicorns.
1956 Model 99
1956 Model 99
 
I’ve been working on the airbox/ filter .
Airbox from Norvil - kind of on your own as to filter . Got a Fram number from NOC site but pretty much unavailable here in the USA and what costs $ 15 is + $30 or more shipping from across the pond . My buddy that owns a few NAPA stores found one of the right thickness ( width ? ) and of a diameter that was a little large .
The issue is the carb intake on the airbox does not reach the inside of the filter so I made a duct of sheet brass and cut the filter to butt into the duct. I laid out the pattern for the duct as one piece but the sheet brass wasn’t big enough so I had to make the end cap separate. For fear of the fasteners coming loose being ingested I used brass machine screws soldered to the duct and nuts on the outside which will be staked or peened also . Scotchbrite pads cut as gaskets .
I think I have got it arranged so the engine only ingests filtered air .
The volume of the filtered air looks to be close to the original D shape Vokes that NOrtOnelecr@ posted above.
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Fingers crossed…
 
I’ve been working on the airbox/ filter .
Airbox from Norvil - kind of on your own as to filter . Got a Fram number from NOC site but pretty much unavailable here in the USA and what costs $ 15 is + $30 or more shipping from across the pond . My buddy that owns a few NAPA stores found one of the right thickness ( width ? ) and of a diameter that was a little large .
The issue is the carb intake on the airbox does not reach the inside of the filter so I made a duct of sheet brass and cut the filter to butt into the duct. I laid out the pattern for the duct as one piece but the sheet brass wasn’t big enough so I had to make the end cap separate. For fear of the fasteners coming loose being ingested I used brass machine screws soldered to the duct and nuts on the outside which will be staked or peened also . Scotchbrite pads cut as gaskets .
I think I have got it arranged so the engine only ingests filtered air .
The volume of the filtered air looks to be close to the original D shape Vokes that NOrtOnelecr@ posted above.
View attachment 119064

View attachment 119065

View attachment 119066

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View attachment 119068
Fingers crossed…
Well thought out and well executed.
 
Looks like Norville has changed the box from what they used to supply. It DID have an internal framework that positioned the filter for you. And a home made filter from an Austin Mini could be constructed . A carb flanged ring (with a flat side to miss oil tank) connected to a similarly shaped rubber adaptor that joined it all. The filter cut side is bedded into a bead of setting bath mastic that is laid down on a greased box face. Allows for easy removal. Has worked for years . A rubber sheet spray baffle from the mudguard into the swinging arm is advisable to keep things dry , with the added benefit of reduced side spray onto the rear chain run. The earlier wideline mudguard appears to be better than the later slimlines ones for spray protection.
 
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well these Norton were the batch of export light blue ones tanks in light polychrome blue and gold and white piping round tank badge see AOL electric for upgade electronic regulator take 6 volt gives out 12 volt so all you need is a set of 12 volt bulbs jobs a good one
 


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